Tire Repair Service
Tire Repairs Simplified
This make-shift repair job on a sidewall of a Mustang GT broke the rules in many different ways.
Tire repairs are a common procedure at many shops. They’re a customer pleaser too, because a quick repair means they don’t have to buy a new tire that will cost hundreds of dollars.
While it’s nice to be the hero, sometimes you have to tell them their flat tire is ready for the scrap bin. Puncture repairs are only possible in the tread area of the tire. Where damage extends into the shoulder of the tire or sidewall, that tire cannot be repaired.
For speed rated tires, you need to find out from the manufacturer whether it can be repaired and whether it retains its speed rating after the repair. Similarly, some run-flat tires can be repaired, while others cannot. You need to check with the manufacturer.
Even if the type of tire is repairable, the extent of damage will tell you whether you should go ahead.
For example, you shouldn’t even start the job on a tire with less than 2/32” left on the tread. Neither can you repair a tire that is leaking from the spot of a previous repair. If the puncture is more than a quarter inch inch (6mm) in diameter, it cannot be repaired.
Where repair is possible, use a two-piece stem and patch repair, or a one-piece stem and patch kit. Never use just a plug, or just a patch. A plug by itself is only a temporary repair. A patch alone doesn’t fill in the missing rubber that the puncture created. The hole will allow water and air to enter the cords, which could result in a blister. Plugs and patches are meant to work hand-in-hand.
In case it needs to be said, patches go on the inside of the tire!
Repair work must only be done when the tire is fully removed from the hub. You can’t complete a proper inspection when it’s still attached to the wheel assembly. Work in good light as you check the external and internal surfaces for damage and debris.
Remove any debris and ream the puncture channel, starting from the inside, a minimum of three times using an electric or air-powered drill. Repeat from the outside and then use a probe to check for splits in the radial plies.
Buffing the area thoroughly and evenly with a low-speed buffer. Be careful when buffing the inner liner. If you expose the casing body cords, the tire must be scrapped.
After you apply cement, allow it to dry naturally. Don’t used forced air, fans, or heaters to accelerate the drying time.
When you’ve applied the patch and plug, re-inspect the entire tire carefully. After remounting and inflating the tire, check again for damage or leaking.
Tire Repair Services
We hope this page will help you with any questions you may have.
As always, we welcome your call or visit to request more information regarding this and any service we offer.
Tire Repairs Simplified
This make-shift repair job on a sidewall of a Mustang GT broke the rules in many different ways.
Tire repairs are a common procedure at many shops. They’re a customer pleaser too, because a quick repair means they don’t have to buy a new tire that will cost hundreds of dollars.
While it’s nice to be the hero, sometimes you have to tell them their flat tire is ready for the scrap bin. Puncture repairs are only possible in the tread area of the tire. Where damage extends into the shoulder of the tire or sidewall, that tire cannot be repaired.
For speed rated tires, you need to find out from the manufacturer whether it can be repaired and whether it retains its speed rating after the repair. Similarly, some run-flat tires can be repaired, while others cannot. You need to check with the manufacturer.
Even if the type of tire is repairable, the extent of damage will tell you whether you should go ahead.
For example, you shouldn’t even start the job on a tire with less than 2/32” left on the tread. Neither can you repair a tire that is leaking from the spot of a previous repair. If the puncture is more than a quarter inch inch (6mm) in diameter, it cannot be repaired.
Where repair is possible, use a two-piece stem and patch repair, or a one-piece stem and patch kit. Never use just a plug, or just a patch. A plug by itself is only a temporary repair. A patch alone doesn’t fill in the missing rubber that the puncture created. The hole will allow water and air to enter the cords, which could result in a blister. Plugs and patches are meant to work hand-in-hand.
In case it needs to be said, patches go on the inside of the tire!
Repair work must only be done when the tire is fully removed from the hub. You can’t complete a proper inspection when it’s still attached to the wheel assembly. Work in good light as you check the external and internal surfaces for damage and debris.
Remove any debris and ream the puncture channel, starting from the inside, a minimum of three times using an electric or air-powered drill. Repeat from the outside and then use a probe to check for splits in the radial plies.
Buffing the area thoroughly and evenly with a low-speed buffer. Be careful when buffing the inner liner. If you expose the casing body cords, the tire must be scrapped.
After you apply cement, allow it to dry naturally. Don’t used forced air, fans, or heaters to accelerate the drying time.
When you’ve applied the patch and plug, re-inspect the entire tire carefully. After remounting and inflating the tire, check again for damage or leaking.